Dragontail and the Backbone Ridge

It all started with a simple question "What route havent you done?"

After a day of 100 degree temps and swimming in the Wenatchee River "World Class" and I headed up to the Stuart Lake trailhead to make final preparations for the Backbone Route. This route summits Dragontail at 8,840' and is within the Alpine Lakes wilderness. Also Dragontail is the second tallest peak with in the Stuart Range and the Enchantments. The trailhead starts at about 3,400' and asecnds to 6,400' the remaining 2,000' is technical rock climbing up to 5.9. In addition this route is grade IV with a total of 11 miles round trip. Our objective, to complete the route in one day.

Looking out through the car window, up towards the sky, stars shown brightly as we settled in for "a big day" in the mountains. Our eyes slowly shuttered close, the galaxy flickered away and just when we had fallen asleep the alarm started to buzz. In short order we ate a little food, brewed some joe, and we were off through the darkness on headlamp lit trails. Up the Stuart Lake trail following Mountaineers Creek to the junction with the Colchuck Lake Trail, along the dawn lit shoreline of Colchuck Lake and past scattered campsites. Eventually we chose a route up talus and scree then with crampons we crossed a small snowfield.

World Class approaching the Ledges Start

The route starts up class IV ledges that climb left past the backbone ridge and then back up to the right. Following the ramps up and back right to the ridge leads to a groove or dish that goes back left to an optional first pitch that goes at 5.2 . Alternately taking a more direct line up instead of right takes one directly to the base of what maybe pitch 0. At this point we soloed in approach shoes passing a ring slung tree then right to gain the ridge. This is where we roped up and started up on pitch 1.

Pitch 1 & 2 Including the Offwidth

Pitch 1 starts on moderate 5.5 climbing over blocks and around a bush to the base of pitch 2. This astonishing 2nd pitch starts out with hand size jamming but quickly goes to arm, leg, and then shoulder width. This climbed well with a left side in including side pulls on the right edge combined with stems and mantles on the right side face.

World Class Following Pitch 2; Yes That is a #6

Prior to this climb I read about the route including gear beta. Rest assured anyone on this pitch will be pleased to have a #5 and #6 C4. I bumped these pieces up for about 45 feet until I exited the off width to the left. Following this stunning off width crack we moved our belay left to start the 3rd pitch. On this pitch World Class started up the corner moving out left into low angle dirty cracks gaining a nice finger crack that would go at 5.7. Although just to the left of the belay were steeper cracks that lead more directly into pitch 4. World Class and I climbed the first four pitches in 2 pitch blocks so she continued up pitch 4. She left the belay to the right and up a short 12' hand crack to slabs and into a gradually widening hand to off width crack. Once gaining the offwidth portion World Class stepped down and left into a right facing dihedral with a finger crack in the corner and face edges to the right. Eventually she topped out to the left after 5.8 moves. After getting to the pitch 4 belay we realized that our pitch count was off thus leading us past an often climbed left facing dihedral. From the top of pitch 3 or what maybe referred to as pitch 4 one could "step down and left" to gain the crack system that leads to the left facing dihedral. Continuing up pitch 5 I followed a low angle hand crack up and left, out and around a corner, across a class III ledge and up to a comfortable shaded belay ledge. This is where a team could short pitch, simul, or solo however we continued to pitch out short 5.6 and 5.7 crux moves spaced with low fifth class terrain. We climbed a full 200' 6th pitch then simuled the 7th for another 200'. This lead us to a nice short 5.6 crack on the left side of the ridge. I placed pro for the 30' crack then ran out the remaining 150' for pitch 8. One more runout low fifth class 9th pitch took us to the base of the Fin Direct and lunch.

After a pleasant break soaking in the views from Mount Baker to Mount Rainier, World Class started up leading the 5.5 ridge and into easy ledges for a full rope length. After 200' of leading we finished the remaining 75' of 5.6 by simul-climbing creating what became known as "the longest pitch of the summer." Eventually we exited left up face moves to a comfortable ledge in the middle of the Fin Wall. This was our choice for pitch 10 instead of the chimney corner to our left. This corner  is often used as the lead in pitch to the comfortable ledge in the middle of the Fin Wall.

From this ledge I lead pitch 11 out left from the belay, into 5.7+ face moves, up to short parallel cracks that topped out on a smaller ledge. World Class followed then lead out left again for pitch 12. Thin 5.9 face moves lead into an open book with a crack in the back, climbing out left onto an arete, and up into a right facing dihedral with a combination of jamming and face moves for what we thought was the "short pitch" referred to in the route descriptions.

Two options exist from this belay. One is directly up into what apeared to be a 5.8 hand crack or traverse right across a ledge and into "twin cracks." I led the 13th pitch across the ledge, into the "twin cracks" (5.6)  reaching a dihedral where I built an uncomfortable hanging belay. In hindshight continuing up through the dihedral onto a broad ledge would have been a better option. World Class continued for the 14th pitch up the left facing dihedral with hand and foot jamming, across a broad ledge, then up and left through varied crack jamming and face moves to another "mid pitch" belay directly right and below the Fin. Next are nice 5.7 cracks that meander up, ending at a headwall, then climbing left into a variety of unprotected but short 5.9- face moves into the notch of the Fin for pitch 15.

From here a 16th pitch 4th class ledge leads to a notch on the right. The 17th pitch leads right across a class 3 ledge to join the top of the Serpetine Arete. These last two pitches could be soloed, simuled or short pitched. After coiling our rope and bagging the rack we scambled in approach shoes the last 100' to the summit of Dragontail.

Sunset on Dragontail

Finally we summited about 13 hours after leaving the Stuart Lake trailhead. Our casual pace eventually caused us to be slightly rushed thus leading to the aforementioned mid belays for pitches 13 and 14. After a short break at the summit we reconfigured our packs and started our descent. Once we reached the east side snowfield we put on crampons and descended to Mist Lake and Aasgard Pass. Then to a dusk colored Colchuck Lake down to Mountaineers Creek and back on headlamp lit paths to the trailhead. Roundtrip took me nearly 19 hours while World Class was patient and waited numerous times for me to catch up.

Mist Lake

This route is top notch with 17 pitches of climbing, unparalleled rock and pitch quality, in a wilderness setting, among a grand range of superb alpine rock there isn't better climbing for the grade. A fromidable approach with the possibility of frozen snow or ice and a staggering technical rock route this mountain is a delightful challenge. Considering ones own drive during a single day ascent or a multi day journey through one of Washingtons best alpine rock climbing destinations you will be challenged and you will be rewarded.

Midsummer River Flows and the Summer Super Moon

   Over the past couple weeks the wet  pacific northwest climate dried out. This led to falling river flows that stabilized around 4,000 cfs on the Main Skykomish and then steadily dropped to 2,000 cfs. As a result I was able to use the low water technical river skills I've acquired from years of guiding in Colorado.
   At these flows the North Fork of the Skykomish proves to be narrow, shallow, and generally technical. Thus providing clients with opportunity to hone their paddling skills while preparing for the increasingly difficult Boulder Drop. This dynamic and diverse rapid has an intricate character, from high water over head crashing waves to medium flow greasy tractor beam lines to technical meandering through narrow channels, around boat wrapping rocks, and down steep drops this rapid truly is compelling.

The Crew and Jere Coming Through Airplane Turn in Boulder Drop

   During this prolonged period of clear dry skies we had a stunning full moon display. The giant super moon posed along side the monolith that is the North Peak of Mount Index. The North Peak rises 4,800 feet from the valley floor. This striking tower of rock has resonated my imagination since my first trip to Washington over a decade ago. Now on a nearly daily basis I have gazed upon its faces. From the river and town walls, through shrouded fog and clouds, layered in a white blanket of snow or a sun setting red this peak is yet another beautiful, rugged, wild distinction of the Pacific Northwest.

Full Moon and the North and Middle Index Peaks

The Mystery and Surprise of Adventure

We have been happily floating through the first weeks of summer. Trip after trip of friendly adventurous rafters have left impressed and pleased to have rafted with Outdoor Adventures. Families from around Washington to corporate groups from Outdoor Research, Eddie Bauer, and Amazon have come to the Skykomish to raft but have left totally in love with Index. Climbers from all over the nation migrate to climb the town walls and some of the best dark horse paddlers reside here. Some of these paddlers have sent first descents all over the area. These kayakers I can proudly say are our safety boaters for our Main Skykomish adventure.

Ahh the Flowers of Index

Another couple weeks of sending great routes started with another new climbing partner from somewhere south of here. Mystery girl and I met up and climbed five pitches at Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon including a three pitch route named Saints (5.8). This climb was a bit vague after the first pitch. Perhaps we were off route a bit and in this fashion I wouldn't give it the 3 star consensus that Mountain Project gives it. After that we found ourselves climbing the first pitch of Canary (5.8). This route starts with either  unprotected 5.7 face climbing or protected 5.8 moves under a small roof and turning a corner to gain ledges leading into a short corner with a finger crack. This leads into the crux that I mantled onto the Saber ledge. On our second pitch we stuck to a 5.5 corner with broken block climbing onto the top of Castle Rock.

The next morning I guided a morning Main Skykomish (IV-V) trip and met with my mystery partner in the afternoon. We climbed Rogers Corner (5.9) into Breakfast of Champions (5.10a) creating an awesome 2 pitch link up. Rogers starts with a short hand size dihedral into broken blocks up slabs to another corner with a crux pulling out of the corner and onto a block hanging off the side of the cliff. Then mystery girl led up BOC (5.10a) in style placing great pro and generally making it look easy. This pitch starts with an airy move to gain the hand crack. From there its jamming for the next 50'.

On the descent we simul rappelled. This is when both climbers rappel simultaneously on a single strand of rope in order to save time. This ended up with a pleasantly awkward rappel where I was rappelling in the lap of my partner. Then we switched and she rappelled in my lap. Needless to say we got to know each other a little better. Next we headed over to the ever crowded Godzilla (5.9). A pair was just starting up so we decided to climb Princely Ambitions (5.9).

The next day we started on the first two pitches of G.M. Route (5.9) and into Heart of the Country (5.10a) for the third. This third pitch is another lofty move from the belay into a beautiful hand crack, onto a ledge then an obtuse hand crack onto slabs. I preferred HOC over Breakfast of Champions because it was more consistent in hand size. Where as my mystery partner preferred BOC over Heart of the Country because of the slightly narrower crack.

Heart of the Country (5.10a) 

Following this great line we headed to Godzilla (5.9) and found not a soul waiting or climbing this ever crowded route. We quickly jumped on it and led up the first 30 feet of 5.7 run out to a sustained dihedral with varied crack jamming, lay backing, and an interesting traverse at the top to gain the belay anchor. Subsequently we climbed the second pitch of City Park (5.10b). This starts with a bolt protected move to a reachy finger out right and a bold mantle onto a ledge. This leads into a fun finger crack in a corner up to a slightly bulging bolt protected move. Eventually we were faced with the difficult proposition of continuing up for a third pitch on Slow Children (5.10d). Thankfully we made friends on the previous belay ledge and one of the climbers offered to be a "rope gun". He generously put our rope up so we could top rope this awesome 5.10d pitch. Another difficult move from the belay anchors into a balanced reach of just finger tips for me and fingers for mystery girl. Thin finger tips lead to a blind reach right, up more finger tips to an arete to gain the last fingers to tips in a flaring corner cruxing at the top. Totally awesome and one of the best 3 pitch routes I've ever done! Moreover these were the hardest routes I've climbed all season. What a great feeling to progress!  

After another great weekend of guiding on the Main Skykomish (IV-V) I met a couple new climbing friends and we headed up for a nonchalant couple pitches on K Cliff. We climbed Special K (5.8) a low angle dihedral leads to a pull out right and over a bulge on fingers. We also climbed Rise Pumpkin Rise (5.9+). This route climbs face moves up to a stretch out left to gain a corner to the top.

To my surprise we headed out to Snow Creek Wall the next day and climbed Orbit (5.8+). This wall is still one of my favorites. With 6 pitches of continuous climbing within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area it doesn't get much better.

Icicle Creek

After meeting up with some friends in Leavenworth we made quick time on the 45 minute approach to the wall. Surprise girl and I soloed low 5th class to our first pitch. To start is a chimney with a crack in the back or it can be stemmed. Next is one of the classic long 150' pitches that starts with 5.6 climbing into a short traverse that leads into an amazing finger crack dihedral. The third pitch is another long pitch that comes off the belay into an airy exposed move into a low angle dihedral. The increasing angle of the pitch leads into a reach out right turning a corner and starting up a finger to hands crack. Eventually this leads into face climbing into another corner and lay backs onto the belay ledge nearly 180' from the start of the pitch!

Surprise on the Third Pitch of Orbit (5.8+)

Then another great corner turns an edge onto another face then pulls over a slight bulge onto a face that finishes the fourth pitch. The fifth pitch traverses right into whats referred to as a sea of chicken heads. These features are little protrusions of rock that climb like a ladder up the cliff. This easy but extremely fun pitch stretches the rope at nearly 200' of climbing. Finally the sixth pitch gains the top of the wall nearly 800' up.

Welcome to the Top of Snow Creek Wall

Friends and Clients on One of Washingtons Best Rivers

   The Skykomish River comes crashing off of the high peaks of the Wild Sky and Henry Jackson Wilderness areas. The mountains within these areas strike the sky five thousand feet above the valley floor. Collecting up to 200" of precipitation every year provides the Skykomish river with generous flows.
 
   Our North Fork of the Sky trip meanders along the Wild Sky Wilderness boundary. In fact sections of this commercially run section are the wilderness area boundary. This provides spectacular scenery with an almost daily sighting of bald eagles and the occasional bobcat sighting.
 
   Since Outdoor Adventures has a private put in we are the only company running this section. Outdoor Adventures is a family run business and the Corson's have been generous. They have allowed us to provide our friends, families, and clients with a unique class III experience.

Ryland on the North Fork

   Over the past couple weeks I have been able to take friends to this amazing location. After paddling at the USRA National Championships Jeremiah and Katie came to Index for a visit.  Subsequently we paddled with Seamus on the North Fork Skykomish (III). After that Jeremiah, Seamus, Ryland and I R-2'd the Main Skykomish (V). So much fun paddling with Katie and Jeremiah a fellow Ark Shark teammate. Shortly after their visit I had another opportunity to showcase one of Washington's best rivers to friends.

Wade, Hannah, Ryland, Josie, Me, Sam, Rib, and Seamus

   Josie came along with Sam as she was moving back to the South Sound area. They had rafted the Lochsa in Idaho a couple days before. So I figured we would be good to go on the Main Sky (V) but we were more inclined to have a scenic run on the North Fork followed with a riverside campfire. Not surprisingly Josie and Sam were impressed with the hidden town of Index, the Skykomish River and the surrounding wilderness. The next day Sam played guide and guides played tourists when we headed to Pikes Place Market in Seattle for a cultural buffet.

Keith, Lindsey, Me, Jordan

  Soon after I had the pleasure of guiding a wonderful group down the North Fork to the Main in a full day whitewater adventure. Here is a photo Mark from Woodinville took on our North Fork to Main Skykomish trip. Keith rallied two full boats from the North Fork to upgrade and add the Main Sky to complete this fun filled day.
 
   Last week I submitted an American Mountain Guide Association scholarship application and video. Finances are one of the biggest hurdles in acquiring AMGA certifications. Thankfully the AMGA has many industry sponsors that help instructors and guides become certified. This video is a short summary of the places Ive travelled to acquire experience and prerequisites to confidently participate in these professional level courses.  rock guide prerequisites  ski guide prerequisites

Check out my scholarship video here.

   Here is another short video from an adventure Seamus and I had on the Rapid River near Skykomish Washington.

Rapid River Skykomish Washington

Spring Flows and Multi Pitch Ascents

After a prolonged period of rain, sunshine prevailed for 3 days allowing the fine grained Index granite to dry. Just as the forecast predicted we would have 3 days of good weather. With this in mind I contacted many Washington climbers to line up a day of climbing. I first contacted Hun who I met at a rock rescue clinic held at the Vital Climbing Gym in Bellingham. In short order Hun put me in contact with Stephen. The next day we sent 9 pitches on 4 routes providing Stephen with a great introduction to Index climbing. First was a four pitch link up on Aires (5.8+). This route has a short hand to fist crack into an angled finger jam dihedral, a chimney that requires general off width climbing technique and an under cling traverse left turning a corner over wonderful exposure leading to skewed hand cracks.

Hillside above the Wenatchee River

After this we headed to the GM Route (5.9) on the Country Wall. This classic line takes a class III ledge to short face moves, jamming and lay backing a flake, a roof under cling out right into a widening crack that starts with hands and ends in arm widths. The last pitch starts with an right side in off width to mantle out, a long reach into the finishing hand to fist crack.

Our next route was Princely Ambitions (5.9). The first pitch of this route starts with a bolt protected face move to gain a flake, up to the crux of a side pull match then a balanced reach right to a jug. Next is an awesome leftward traverse with a matching mantle to gain the next corner. This section uses finger jamming, lay backing and smearing to gain the bolted anchors at nearly 130' up!

Index and Mount Baring 

With the weather quickly changing in the coming weekend I changed my focus back to the river. Fortunately I have been paddling with experienced guides from Washington and surprisingly many from Colorado. This has provided a great transition from my home turf on the Arkansas River guiding with The Adventure Company. Through out the week we R-2'd the North Fork and the Main Skykomish and eventually I had the opportunity to guide my first trips on the Sky. This was an incredible experience considering this river was a determining factor for working with The Outdoor Adventure Center. Here is another reason to come to the Skykomish and raft with us. We were voted best in Washington. The North Fork was flowing at 2,800 cubic feet per second while the Main Skykomish was at 8,500 cfs. After a successful warm up run on the N. Fork we headed to the Main in the afternoon. My crew was friends with a second year guide, Brendan, and he insisted that I guide his group down the Main through Boulder Drop. With one apprehensive person on the crew we managed to run a clean line through the center. In the end we had a wonderful run avoiding the sticky holes and crushing the unavoidable ones. Namely at the picket fence, house rock and ledge hole in Boulder Drop. At these flows the constriction between the house rocks is an impressive 9 foot tongue of water into an overhead breaking wave. So Much Fun!

Foggy Boulder Drop on the Skykomish River with House Rock barely exposed

At the same time Ryan from Portland contacted me to find out about climbing opportunities. I met Ryan randomly in April at camp in Icicle Canyon. Like many climbers there he was bouldering. However after a few beers around the campfire he decided to come climb Givlers Crack (5.7) with me. Nearly a month later he was on his way back to Washington to climb Index. On the first day we climbed the 4 pitch Aires (5.8) and the 3 pitch G.M. route (5.9). During this time we established multi pitch protocol including transitions, communication and rappelling. The next day we climbed Senior Citizens in Space (5.8) an awesome twin crack dihedral that doglegs left. After that was Magic Fern (5.9). This climb has a sequenced start leading to a corner over a bulging block and through a hand to fist sized crack. The final climb of the day is one of Index's best, Rattletale (5.10 a/b). This excellent route starts up a broken face to a soft corner with a few finger sized lay backs and corner toe wedges. The second of three pitches is the best with a right facing right leaning hand to fist sized crack for about 50'. This pitch requires good jamming for the first half and solid lay backing for the second half. While there is an excellent third pitch we opted out due to water seeping out and soaking the rock.

Rattletale 

The last day was a great opportunity for Ryan to put his new found trad leading skills to work. Ryan and I started out on the Great Northern Slab (5.7+). A blocky first pitch leads to the twin right slanting cracks of the second pitch known as Pisces (5.6). Eventually we topped out on bolt protected slab. Since Ryan was headed back to Portland that day we decided on one more climb, namely Princely Ambitions (5.9). I led the wonderful first pitch and encouraged Ryan to lead the second 5.8 pitch. He led the pitch with solid gear placements and appropriate intervals. Great job Ryan!

What a great conclusion to Ryan's trip to Index. When we parted ways Ryan was stoked later telling me that I ruined sport climbing for him. Which is a good thing because now he is stoked on multi pitch traditional climbing!

Meanwhile I was publishing the first entry to Guided Exposure and Chris from Seattle came walking into the cafe at The Outdoor Adventure Center. Chris was in search of a climbing partner and coincidentally I was about to go scout routes for a climbing trip I am developing for Outdoor Adventures. Just as we were about to head out Whitney from Gig Harbor came walking into the River House and decided to join us on our adventure climb. By adventure I mean we were linking up routes on different walls that are stacked upon each other. In this way we would ascend the most vertical possible without descending to the bottom each time we wanted to start another route. Subsequently Chris and I climbed the next two days culminating with Chris successfully on sighting Rattletale (5.10 a/b)!

Balsam Root Flower

After a couple weeks of amazing adventure in the Cascades we were drinking cold beers on the patio of the River House taking in the views of the Upper Town Wall when one of the most legendary mountaineering figures in North America came walking by. This man has put up hundreds of first ascents. He has put up routes from Alaska to Arizona. Subsequently he wrote the book on Washington mountaineering namely Fred Beckey. This icon came strolling back to his car. An unsuspecting character who is 91 years old! Check out this video on Fred. This reinforces the fact that Index and the central Washington Cascades are a destination for any outdoor adventure enthusiast.