|Ahh the Flowers of Index|
The next morning I guided a morning Main Skykomish (IV-V) trip and met with my mystery partner in the afternoon. We climbed Rogers Corner (5.9) into Breakfast of Champions (5.10a) creating an awesome 2 pitch link up. Rogers starts with a short hand size dihedral into broken blocks up slabs to another corner with a crux pulling out of the corner and onto a block hanging off the side of the cliff. Then mystery girl led up BOC (5.10a) in style placing great pro and generally making it look easy. This pitch starts with an airy move to gain the hand crack. From there its jamming for the next 50'.
On the descent we simul rappelled. This is when both climbers rappel simultaneously on a single strand of rope in order to save time. This ended up with a pleasantly awkward rappel where I was rappelling in the lap of my partner. Then we switched and she rappelled in my lap. Needless to say we got to know each other a little better. Next we headed over to the ever crowded Godzilla (5.9). A pair was just starting up so we decided to climb Princely Ambitions (5.9).
The next day we started on the first two pitches of G.M. Route (5.9) and into Heart of the Country (5.10a) for the third. This third pitch is another lofty move from the belay into a beautiful hand crack, onto a ledge then an obtuse hand crack onto slabs. I preferred HOC over Breakfast of Champions because it was more consistent in hand size. Where as my mystery partner preferred BOC over Heart of the Country because of the slightly narrower crack.
|Heart of the Country (5.10a)|
After another great weekend of guiding on the Main Skykomish (IV-V) I met a couple new climbing friends and we headed up for a nonchalant couple pitches on K Cliff. We climbed Special K (5.8) a low angle dihedral leads to a pull out right and over a bulge on fingers. We also climbed Rise Pumpkin Rise (5.9+). This route climbs face moves up to a stretch out left to gain a corner to the top.
To my surprise we headed out to Snow Creek Wall the next day and climbed Orbit (5.8+). This wall is still one of my favorites. With 6 pitches of continuous climbing within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area it doesn't get much better.
|Surprise on the Third Pitch of Orbit (5.8+)|
|Welcome to the Top of Snow Creek Wall|