Rock Climbing Leadership with Colorado Mountain College in Leadville

   As the summer winds down the days are warm but short while the nights are getting cool and longer. August heat and monsoon rains taper off and give way to what climbers affectionately call "Sendtember." This perfect weather is ideal for rock climbing in many of the world class climbing destinations across the United States. Including Vedauwoo in south east Wyoming and Eldorado Canyon and Golden Gate Canyon in the Front Range of Colorado. These world class climbing destinations are the venues for our Rock Climbing Leadership course with Colorado Mountain College.

   Anticipation was high for many students. As with many of the outdoor recreation leadership courses students are excited to learn technical skills and instructional techniques that relate to their newly found interests, passions, and eventual careers. In this case rock climbing in single pitch and multi pitch terrain.

   We left the Timberline campus headed over Fremont Pass and the continental divide, through Summit County, on I-70 into the Johnson tunnel, down the Clear Creek watershed and then north along the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains to our first rock climbing venue Vedauwoo. Know as "the land of the earth born spirit" Vedauwoo offers an ideal location for instruction.

Walt's Wall from Camp

   After we set up camp we quickly headed to Walt's Wall. Since we were all excited to climb our American Mountain Guide Association certified instructors Kip Davis, Cheyenne Chaffee, and John MacKinnon put up many routes to get us started. Before we started to climb we needed our first lesson. Fortunately I was given the opportunity to demonstrate proper belay technique and "buddy checks" in order to safely start a top rope or sling shot climb.

   Our first climbs were Satterfields Crack (5.8), Friction Slide (5.8/8-), Edwards Crack (5.7), Walt's Wall (5.4), and Horns Mother (5.11a). After a fun afternoon climbing one of the Voo's most popular walls we headed back to camp, cooked dinner, and debriefed about the day and what to expect the next morning.

Cheyenne on Horns Mother

Don Belaying on Edwards Crack

Erik on Middle Staircase

   On day 2 we headed to the Beehive Buttress. Here we covered site management for leading groups including "helmet zones", Leave No Trace practices, climber courtesy, and self care for outdoor leaders. Next we discussed skills used in top rope and lead sport climbing such as communication, bolt clipping, anchor building on expansion bolts, cleaning top rope anchors, and rappelling. Following a lead climbing demo students were able to mock lead. This is where students climb on top rope while trailing a rope below them, clipping quickdraws to bolt hangers, then clipping the rope through the quickdraw. In this manner a student can develop safe leading technique while avoiding a lead fall. Through out the day we climbed Back to Bucket Country (5.8), Intoxica (5.10b), Lucky Groove (5.9), Noxious Invasives (5.10c), Middle Staircase (5.7), Gypsy Fire (5.5), Rip Chords (5.6), and Walking the Boards (5.10a).

   After 2 days of sending quality routes we started our third day with a ground school. The objective of the day was to develop traditional gear selection, placement, and anchor building. Including equalized anchors and side to side anchors.  Later we made our way over to the Nautilus. Here we climbed Easy Jam (5.4), Cornelius (5.5), and Ted's Trot (5.7).

Ground School @ The Clamshell

 
   The next morning, after breakfast and a recap of the previous days skills, we hiked past Walt's Wall, through a cattle gate, meandered through yellowing aspens, past pillars of granite, over a low saddle between crags and down to the base of an area called Jurassic Park. This is where all the students put the previous days skills to work. Everyone built top rope anchors and in short order we rappelled to the base and started our day of sending. By this time the sun was high, beams of light blazed the large grain granite as puffs of chalk dried our sweating hands. This area provided a high density of fine quality climbs from the birthing canal chimney of Prologue (5.6), to off the ground crux of Spatial Juxtaposition (5.8), intriguing and varied cruxes of Anatomy Lesson (5.9+), and of course the highlight Mud in Your Eye (5.11b). Even though this grade is subjective it never the less is considered an extremely difficult climb. It's no doubt committing yet doable. It starts with a step up finger lock, to a juggy right hand, all sequenced for the judo chop hand jam that allows you to pull into a right facing crack over a series of hand jams. The crack continues and eventually starts to narrow down to fingertips then flares as you smear to the top. Awesome climb!

Brooke on Kim's 

 
   A cool quiet night led to another amazing sunrise shining on Walt's Wall, the sound of stoves burning, the smell of the morning joe, frying eggs, and hash browns drifted through camp as the group prepared for another ground school day. This comprehensive day included some of the most practical technical leadership skills. Such as pre and self equalized 3 point anchors. Belays including the munter hitch, tube and assisted braking devices in addition guide tethers, high and low master points and basketing were introduced. Perhaps the most important leadership skill that was elaborated on was coaching.

   Subsequently we had multiple days of gear placement and anchor building along with movement development and perhaps just as important, a full rest day from climbing. Next we took a short drive from camp, under the highway and down a dirt road to Poland Hill. Finally students were able to mock traditional lead, build anchors, bring followers up and practice top managed sites and the belayed rappel. Mock lead routes included the fun low angle finger crack and friction slab of Kim (5.6), also Southwest Friction (5.4), and the surprisingly fun and perhaps a super moderate sandbag, Little Old Crack (5.5) which climbed a little harder than Kim. As the sun intensified we gradually worked our way around The Rat Brain to other classic routes such as Sugar Crack (5.7) and its hand size jamming, low stems, and an optional chicken wing at the top. The engaging off the ground stem and jam crux of Ape Walk (5.9+), and of course the crown jewel of Poland Hill, Fantasia (5.9). This is classic Voo off-width at its finest. Off-width is defined as being a crack or split in the rock that is to small to get your entire body inside of and to big to hand or foot jam. Often times these routes require that your left arm, hip, and leg go in the crack (left side in) or your right arm, hip, and leg go in the crack (right side in) or in the case of Fantasia many of us started right side in, then turned to go left side in. Either way this was a scrumptastic good time. After a long day of learning, practicing, and sending we headed back to camp for another great dinner and briefing.

Anchor Light on Sugar Crack

Cheyenne Brings Erik up on Straight Edge

   It was dark when the quiet chirp of my alarm rustled me from sleep. Fortunately I packed the previous night and the only thing to do was grab a small breakfast then head out of camp on head lamp lit trails with Cheyenne and Erik. The rounded domes of granite were just silhouettes against the black and blue morning sky. Our breath billowed in front of our headlamps as we walked down the road, past the gazebo, up over and through stacked talus blocks to the base of our multi-pitch climb. An incredible experience and learning opportunity for students on this course is to go on a multi-pitch climb with professionally trained and certified guides. On this day we climbed 4 pitches that started with the friction slab of the Old Easy Arete (5.9+), linking this into the ultra classic and popular 2 pitch MRC Direct (5.9). This route starts with twin cracks and flakes to the first semi hanging belay. The next pitch begins with a low angle right corner to under clings, wide stems, and hand jams out around a roof, pulling into a widening hand and fist jam crack, continued jams lead to a large belay ledge. Our final pitch was Straight Edge (5.9+). Even though this pitch isn't technically part of MRC it is the recommended link up finish. Straight Edge starts out with a big step across an open chasm into finger locks. Then it continues abruptly up nice steep hand jams, flaring fists and finally into near off-width arm bars or stacked hands. Wow! This link up has full value climbing with every pitch at 5.9 or harder. Of course the adventure doesn't end once you reach the top. So we continued on short rope to our double rope rappel. This took us to a series of ledges and back down to the base of our climb. Along the way we excitedly talked about our favorite pitches, moves, and holds. Once back at camp we grabbed some lunch then headed over to the Nautilus where the rest of class was climbing single-pitch. 

   This ultimate day of send continued at the Nautilus. After an early morning of cold hands, climbing in insulating layers and shells, I waited for the sun to warm up my core. Following a big scrumpy chimney climb on Etude for the Left Hand (5.5) the class wrapped it up and headed around the Nautilus to a great route called The Grand Traverse (5.10a). This crack climb begins with moderate jams and side pulls leading into the crux bulge that requires fun hand jams, stems, lay backs, and a foot to hand match. Next was Captain Nemo (5.8) with its consistent hand size crack with foot smearing on the face. Then with a nice break from the scrumping and jamming we climbed face moves up War Zone (5.9)

 
   In a seeming blink of an eye our week at the "Voo" drew to a close. We packed up camp and said goodbye to the iconic Wyoming Front Range offwidth splitting granite. Our next stop is the Colorado Front Range with its deeply rooted climbing history and abundance of rock this next leg wouldn't disappoint. On the road before sunrise, we headed south back into Colorado to waiting thunderstorms. Greeted with wet rock and some skill assessments on the schedule we continued up to Golden Gate Canyon State Park to set up camp.

   Our final two days of Rock Leadership were spent in the legendary Eldorado Canyon State Park. These green, yellow, black, and red mottled sandstone monoliths were transformed from "their little spot" to enlivened bastions of international recognition by American icons such as Layton Kor, Bob Culp, Pat Ament, Jim Erickson, Larry and Roger Dalke, and many more. 

   We started our 2 day "Eldo" siege by heading to the moderate haven of the Wind Tower. Kip led out  with a couple students on Calypso (5.6)  and into Reggae (5.8). Then Johns team went up The Bomb (5.4) and over to the Wind Ridge (5.8). Next Erik led The Bomb (5.4) while I set up a top rope on Calypso (5.6). In the meantime Cheyennes multi-pitch team was making the approach to Grand Giraffe (5.9+) follwed by a link up into Smoke and Mirrors (5.10a). Later in the day I put a rope up on Tagger (5.9). Soon the sun was beaming on the Wind Tower while everyone finished lapping these routes, so we headed over to The Bastille. In the shade, next to the road, on this legendary cornerstone I put a rope up Werk Supp (5.9) while Kip put a rope on multiple routes in between March of Dimes (5.9) and  Lilliburlero (5.11d). Simultaneously Erik put up The Bastille Crack (5.7+) which included the Northcutt Start (5.10d). 

   One final day of sending led us to the West Ridge. There we climbed another set of classic "Eldo" routes. These included Dandi Line (5.7), Mesca Line (5.7), Iron Horse (5.11), Pony Express (5.9) and just uphill Positively Fourth Street (5.10a) and Lunar Avenue (5.8). These wonderful climbs were a great finish to our Rock Leadership Course.

   Following a great morning of send we loaded up the crew and headed back up Interstate 70, along Clear Creek we played throwback tunes, through the Roberts Tunnel recalling the things we'll carry with us for a lifetime, down into the Blue River Valley filled with yellow, orange, and red splashes of  autumn aspen colors, back up Ten Mile Creek, over the continental divide at Fremont Pass, on the home stretch, with a sigh of relief into the Arkansas River Valley and back to Colorado Mountain College in Leadville. 

Mountaineering Leadership with Colorado Mountain College Leadville

   The clouds hung low over the Arkansas Valley shrouding the Sawatch Range. Cool wet winds reminded us that this has been a moist summer through out the entire Rocky Mountains including our field objective for the course Wyoming's Wind River Range.

Students on Monitor Rock

   As challenging as mountain weather is to any objective we set out on our first field day namely Monitor Rock on Independence Pass. Here we climbed the moderate Rainbow Route on fixed lines. Transitioning at anchors and wrapping friction hitches the class scurried up saturated and striated granite.

   The next day we took to the road. First we headed to the Front Range for supplies. Then northward into Lander Wyoming where we camped at the town park. In the morning we were on our way to Dubois in order to meet the horse  packer. Consider there are 13 people staying in the field for 12 days  this expedition style course required a resupply deep within the Wind River Range.

   After a quick lunch and a couple more supplies we were on our way to the glacier Trail head. Once at the trail head we quickly changed clothes then weighed packs to see how much everyone was carrying. Packs were loaded with 3 days of food, personal supplies and 3 person shelters. Packs weighed in between 72 lbs and 58 lbs. What a range!  The weight was proportionate to each cook groups meal plan and each individuals personal gear needs. While at the trail head we referenced the maps and estimated distance, elevation gain, and travel time to camp.

View of Gannett from Inkwells

   The first afternoon led us 6 miles up the trail into late afternoon rain and into a wet camp at Williamson Corral. On day two we headed over burrow flats. Then the class went down past Double Lake into the Downs creek drainage and up to Inkwells. In a huge day carrying big packs we covered nearly 13 miles. Once at Inkwells we crammed food and additional supplies for the remaining 11 mile approach to our high camp on the Dinwoody Moraine

   After a comfortable camp at Inkwells we prepared for the next heavy haul. Slowly we meandered along Dinwoody creek, across a bridge and up past treeline to our camp adjacent to Elk Lake. A short night at Elk Lake led to establishing camp on the Dinwoody Moraine. While this landscape was referred to as "being on the moon" I see these types of landscapes as "of this world." That planet earth is in reality as rugged as any place we could imagine. However since we are of this earth we feel as though we can survive here but not on another celestial body. But the reality is that this high moraine, this barren landscape devoid of most animals and an occasional human, devoid of most plant life, and filled with glaciers that seemingly stand still but once our human pace has slowed their movement becomes apparent we realize our survival is not guaranteed and we are left with this impression of our world.

Sunset at Elk Lake camp

Dinwoody Moraine Camp

   

   

   Once we set up our tents and grabbed some food we quickly set out on the glacier to discuss snow walking and glacier walks with crampons on steep snow and ice. Also we covered ice axe positions and use.

Kip Demonstrating Rope Team Skills

  

   In addition we covered rope team techniques such as kiwi coils, tie ins, and pre-rigged prusiks.

The Class Headed Upwards

 
The next day we went up the Dinwoody glacier to cover self arrest with an ice axe but without crampons. Once we found a north facing slope with frozen snow and a good sliding surface we practiced self arrest. Initially we slid feet first on our backs, next was head first on our stomachs, then head first on our backs. Once everyone demonstrated adequate self arrest techniques the class headed up a nearby couloir. On this route we used simul-climbing and running belays with snow pickets for protection as each student plunged their way up the 35 degree snow chute.

   As the weather stabilized the rope teams took the opportunity to go for a summit attempt on Gannet Peak, Wyoming's highest at 13,809'. An early alpine start of 4 a.m. led us through the headlamp lit moraine. Once below the steep toe of the Dinwoody Glacier we applied crampons and started up through the dry glacier using french and 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock crampon techniques. After reaching the wet glacier the teams quickly encountered our first crevasses and this prompted us to rope up and provide some protection as we navigated around sagging snow bridges and open crevasses. Along the way team leaders employed hip and terrain belays using nearby boulders as anchors and using our bodies as belay devices. Eventually the glaciers slope eased and we reached the wet glacier where we meandered to the base of the South Gooseneck Couloir. We crossed a bergschrund to enter the couloir then climbed, clipping snow pickets, planting ice axes and steadily plunge stepped until we reached the exposed wind blown scree near the ridge line. Next we scurried along the ridge to an exposed 32 degree snow slope that took us to our final traversing summit ridge. Under blue skies in calm winds, over wet snow, along a spine of rocks we reached the summit. While there was a prominent rock precipice generally the summit is flat and covered in snow.

The Class Headed Up South Gooneck Couloir

    Finally the time came to head back down the mountain. Across the summit ridge down a slope of snow another ridge line took us to the standard Gooseneck Couloir for our descent. At this point I was given the opportunity to place pickets for the group. My rope team and I headed down slope in sloppy snow conditions. We descended starting with a plunge step and eventually we faced the slope to down climb. This allowed us to be more stable in a self arrest position. With Kips oversight I work hardened the snow as I drove the pickets into the snow, clipping our rope in, and continuing our descent. We reached a bergschrund at the bottom of the couloir. Negotiating the schrund was easy but a little risky as it was only a matter of feet to inches from punching through the snow bridge into the gaping crevasse below. Everyone made it down the couloir and onto the Gooseneck Glacier down to the standard trail, through scree, across the creek and back to camp.

Hauling 6:1

   The next day brought us rest and recovery after a long day on the mountain. However we did have a ground school covering direct and indirect haul systems.

Ryan Above Moraine Camp

   

   

   With only a few days left in the moraine camp our next objective would be a sub peak of Mount 

Woodrow Wilson. Another early morning under dark skies with a fresh few inches of snow we left camp through the moraine, up the dry toe of the Dinwoody, around crevasses, and onto the wet glacier to reach a nice steep slope of snow to gain the summit ridge and out to the summit prominence of the day.

   On the descent we rappelled 3 times. First off 2 equalized snow pickets. Next off of 2 equalized ice screws. On our last low angle slope we arm rappelled.

Students Rappelling 

   Due to an unforeseen injury we left camp the next day, down through the Dinwoody Moraine, past Elk lake and to a trail side crag. Here we covered traditional protection placement and anchor building as it pertains to the alpine environment. After a short climb integrating hip belays and natural protection  we continued down the valley, through an aspen grove along the creek and back to Inkwells for our final resupply and a hefty loading of carbohydrates.

Double Lake Reflection

Over the next two days we meandered along creeks, through forests, upon rolling trails, up steep sunny switch backs, past beautiful alpine lakes, below towering walls of pristine Wind River granite, over high mountain passes, among the big horn sheep and ghost ponies to arrive at the Glacier trail head.